Of all the places I wandered around to, the biggest Holy Shit moment that I came across during my time in Indiana was a tiny town called New Harmony, located right along the Wabash River. (The other side of the river is Illinois, for those who like to visualize)
I had seen a posting about a walk through living labyrinth and I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to see it first hand, what I didn’t know was just what a strangely magical place I was about to discover!
The Labyrinth in New Harmony was originally designed as a place for meditation and reflection by the Harmonites/Rappites, an ultra-religious German society, in the early 19th century. They were the first to try to create a perfect society.
(sorry for the shitty cell phone pic)
The Super Quick History -
The small community of Harmony was originally founded in 1814 by a German communal religious group known as the Harmonists.
They developed the town and manufactured a large variety of goods. they became a fairly thriving community and in 1825 sold the entire town and moved on.
Robert Owen purchased the land and renamed it New Harmony with big dreams of creating "a New Moral World" of happiness, enlightenment, and prosperity through education, science, technology, and communal living. Owen believed his Utopian community would create a "superior social, intellectual and physical environment" based on his ideals of social reform .
It failed within 2 years.
I encourage you to research and learn more, it is fairly fascinating.
Despite the failed socialist experiment, more than 30 structures from the Harmonist and Owenite Utopian communities remain and many are historical landmarks. From the log cabins to the beautifully restored and maintained houses and buildings the town has that perfect small town feel with a German flair.
however….
There are a few things that are quite unexpected, to say the least.
Do not get me wrong, this is amazing! I just had ZERO clue about any of it and so it was a bit shocking to the senses. I drove into town, saw the labyrinth, then had some lunch at a quaint little cafe. I admired all the bicycles and golf cars that everyone drove and I thought I’d wander a street or two and marvel over the houses but then I see this. Some sort of large brick compound with gilded gates about a block off the main street…what the…?
I’m like, What the Hell is that!
The Roofless Church is an open air interdenominational church designed by Philip Johnson and dedicated in 1960. The church was commissioned by Jane Blaffer Owen, the widow of a descendant of Robert Owen (the founder of New Harmony) It is an open park surrounded by a wall. There is one roof-like structure inside the compound, which is a cover for the statue The descent of the Holy Spirit by Jacques Lipchitz. (Wiki)
First of all, it is breathtakingly beautiful, deadly silent, and incredibly serene. There are art pieces around and a fountain and a beautiful sitting area overlooking some wetland. And then this giant dome.
I’ll admit, I really had to resist the urge to get under it and yell or sing loudly (and badly). I did sit and meditate in the garden for quite a bit though.
As I made my way past the dome to the back exit I was so surprised to find a number of log cabins. Beautifully maintained in various sizes. A rather stark change from the space I had just emerged from but extremely beautiful and exciting to explore.
As I continued down the road I found another labyrinth, called the Cathedral Labyrinth. It is made of smooth and polished granite. There was no way I was not going to take a slow and thoughtful walk around as the water feature trickled. It was heaven! The one thing I learned in visiting this town was to take my time and center myself.
As grounded and relaxed as I was, I was still so jarred by this sight.
Just past the labyrinth, and next to one of the log cabins, is the Atheneum, built by architect, Richard Meier . The building opened in 1979 as the visitors center to the town.
Yes, it’s the visitors center, I know, I was surprised too.
There are four galleries in there. The first hosts a gift shop, yup, you can buy souvenirs there and see a 1/32 scale copy of the Harmonist Brick Church. The second gallery discusses the various individuals in New Harmony's history. The third gallery has a 1 inch = 10 feet (1:120) scale of New Harmony in 1824, made during the filming of the 17 minute film you can watch on the history of the town. The fourth is closed to the public and has furniture designed by Richard Meier himself - so don’t even think about seeing that, you’re not worthy.
Apparently, I came into the town the wrong way because supposedly that is where you would normally start - which may have been less of a shock somehow had I done it that way. I don’t know though, it was all a bit discombobulating - but in a strangely amazing way. Somehow, it all works.
I wish I had had more time to photograph some of the magnificent homes and other buildings in town, hopefully one day I will make it back out that way.
Still - I was beyond thrilled to spend time in this amazing place!
Until next time,
Love and Light,
Sharon